Setting up the workspace and getting started with the hull

The Night Heron is formed a little different than most other kayak builds. Instead of using forms on a strongback, the Heron is started with forms sitting flat. This is kind of hard to explain but here goes.

This is an example of the use of a strongback. It’s how the Great Auk is formed. Everything is aligned based on the strongback frame, so as long as the frame is straight, the boat will be straight.

The Heron is built off of forms that set on the work surface. And while most of the initial construction is self aligning, you still need a flat and level surface to insure the build stays straight. For that reason, I spent a lot of time setting up a work area. I bought two 4×8 sheets of OSB then set up three pairs of sawhorses. After screwing the OSB onto the horses, I leveled the plywood using wood shims. To hold the shims in place I tow-nailed small finish nails from the horse legs into the shims to keep them from moving if I bumped or had to adjust the space. It took me a few hours but when I was done I had a solid work surface.

The Heron comes with very detailed and easy to follow instructions and since this was my first build, I studied the booklet very carefully. Since plywood only comes in 8 foot sections, the hull need to be pieced together. The Heron’s hull uses finger joints or more exactly, puzzle joints. You snap the strips together then epoxy or super glue the joints. Once the pieces are assembled into the hull then fiberglass and epoxied, they become very strong.

I knew I wanted stain the hull red. When I ordered the Heron, I bought a bottle of marine stain-Blood Red. Marine stain is alcohol-based and is the only stain you should use under epoxy. Instructions are very clear here; do not use solvent based stain like you would use on furniture or a deck. Apparently that type of stain continues to gas-off and will cause bubbles and separation of the fiberglass and the wood. Epoxy is alcohol-based so it is compatible with marine stain. It was at this time I made my first little error.

Instead of staining the bottom panels first, I carefully glued the puzzle-jointed sections together. However the glue oozed through to the outside of the joints. Once it dried, I knew I could not stain that joint without it looking bad. Even after sanding it, I knew it would not take the stain well. So at that time I made the decision to keep the bottom of the hull natural finish(the glue does not show up when covered with epoxy). I stained the sides of the hull before gluing. As it turned out later, I was glad it worked out that way. Scratches don’t show quite as bad on a natural finish.

Once I had all the section assembled and stained, I was ready to start the hull assembly.